South Africa #2: from St. Lucia to Drakensberg

 

21 days in South Africa, from Johannesburg to Cape Town. Thousands of kilometers and at least as many impressions. In the coming weeks I will take you on a journey along our route through South Africa, through word and image and with lots of tips and tricks. This week: from St. Lucia to Drakensberg.

 
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DAY 5 & 6: ST. LUCIA

After a short pit stop in Swaziland, we headed for St. Lucia. We had booked a self-catering cottage in the town of Hluhluwe, an hour's drive from St. Lucia, but - despite the good reviews on Booking.com - the reality was rather disappointing. Are you still looking for accommodation in this area? Then I would highly recommend Chumbi Bush House. This gorgeous villa was unfortunately no longer available when we booked our stay, but I’ve heard lots of great things about it.

St. Lucia, a.k.a. hippo town, houses the largest population of hippos in all of South Africa. During the day, the animals are chilling in the river, but as soon as it gets dark, they come ashore looking for grass. These chubby fellas may look cute, but they’re in the top three most deadly animals in South Africa, so walking around in St. Lucia after sunset is definitely not a good idea. Want to see the hippos in their natural habitat? Make sure to book a boat safari. At Safari for Six you go on the water with a smaller boat, that way you can get closer to the hippos. You don't have to book your boat safari very far in advance, but it certainly doesn’t hurt to stop by the ticket office the day or morning before you want to go see the hippo’s.

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Another must in St. Lucia? iSimangaliso Wetland Park. This park belongs to the Unesco World Heritage and offers a nice mix of beach and safari. We entered the park with our own car just past noon and spent about three hours there. We spotted zebras, giraffes, wildebeest and even two rhino’s and made a number of stops at the beautiful viewpoints in the park. Be sure to stretch your legs at Mission Rocks and Cape Vidal for breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. Also, keep in mind that there are no petrol stations or eating facilities in the park.

A final hit in St. Lucia is Hippo Café. This eatery is located along the main street and became our home base in St. Lucia. It’s super cozy (both inside and outside), the food is delicious, the wifi is free and for those traveling with kids, there’s also a very nice playground. Hippo Café is the perfect place to start your day in St. Lucia, or to drop by for a nice lunch after a boat safari or a long walk on Ingwe Beach.

After our second day in St. Lucia we headed to Westbrook, near Durban. That way we were already well on our way to our next stop. We booked a room in a villa near the beach and had the house (including swimming pool, jacuzzi and staff!) all to ourselves. There is not much to do in Westbrook itself, but as a stopover on the way to your next destination, I’d highly recommend staying at Royal Zulilly Ocean Villa.

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DAY 7 & 8: DRAKENSBERG

After a night at the Royal Zulilly Ocean Villa we drove on to Drakensberg, again a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The goal? Enjoying nature for two days and recovering from all the impressions on the first part of our journey. We stayed at Ama Casa Cottages, a beautiful holiday home with a view of the mountains, a private jacuzzi and the loveliest hostess and host, Les & Dave. We made long walks (tickets with marked routes are usually available at your accommodation), barbecued on our terrace and - sitting in the jacuzzi and with a glass of wine in hand - enjoyed the most beautiful starry sky we’ve ever seen. Nice to know: guests of Ama Casa Cottages can also use a beautiful rock pool nearby. Just go there right before sunset, make sure to bring some snacks and thank me later!

Another must in Drakensberg is The Valley Bakery. Hostess Les sent us there on our first day and if it was up to me, we went back every day. The cozy bakery/restaurant is located in the middle of a garden full of roses and wrought-iron benches and serves the most delicious home-made bread and pastries. You have to cope with the fact that the average visitor is far beyond fifty, but believe me: it’s such an amazing place! Just like all of Drakensberg by the way. Can I go back now, please?!

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DAY 9: DOMESTIC FLIGHT

After two wonderful days in Drakensberg, the first part of our trip was over. Time for a domestic flight from Durban to Port-Elizabeth, which allowed us to cover a distance of less than a thousand kilometers in just over an hour. We booked our flights with FlySafair, South Africa's low cost airline. Quick, correct and above all affordable.

Curious about the next stops on our road trip through South Africa? Stay tuned for ‘Part 3: Jeffrey's Bay and Prince Albert.